The easternmost province of Irian Jaya occupies the west half of the world's second largest island of New Guinea. Irian Jaya has a land area of 410,760 sq. kms. A snowcapped mountain range in the middle of the island is topped by Puncak Jaya. At 4884 metres this is the highest peak in Southeast Asia. Irian Jaya has been a province ot the Republic of Indonesia since 1969 officially, and its native inhabitants have many distinctly different cultures. The capital of this last frontier province is Jayapura, a seven hour flight from Jakarta. Near this city is Lake Sentani, where boats are available to motor around. On the road to the airport is Museum Negeri with excellent ethnographic displays. You will need to get a permit to travel to Wamena and beyond from the Police in Jayapura, and for this you will require a couple of photographs of yourself. The best place to eat is an old Dutch Bakery its an oasis real coffee opposite the Police station, the streets are strewn with polystyrene cups. Be prepared to wait a while for your permit to be issued. You will need to complete two A4 sheets of questions, including such things as "Are you a member of any Environmental Rights Group", whatever your job, you will need to substantiate it by telling them what qualifications you have to do your job. The permissions Chief types with two fingers on an old manual typewriter, so it takes a while to get your permit (or Surat Jalan). There are Karaoke bars in Jayapura, the City itself is a bit sleazy. Western standard accommodation does not apply here. Be prepared to wait a day or so for flights. Merpati print a timetable, but rarely keep to it. They tend to make the first flight out of the day from the parts of other planes